Pakan Kelinci

Faktor pakan merupakan factor utama dalam mengembangkan kelinci. Oleh karena itu berhasil tidaknya suatu usaha ternak kelinci juga sangat bergantung kepada perhatian peternak di dalam memberikan pakan baik kualitas maupun kuantitasnya. Selain pakan kelinci juga perlu diberi minum, karena air merupakan zat yang dibutuhkan kelinci. Tempat pakan dan minum bervariasi jenisnya, mulai dari wadah biasa sampai pada sistem persediaan pakan dan air otomatis (Blakely dan Bade, 1991).
Sistem pencernaan kelinci adalah sistem pencernaan yang sederhana (monogastrik) dengan coecum dan usus besar. Hal ini memungkinkan kelinci dapat makan dan memanfaatkan jenis pakan hijauan berupa daun-daunan, sayuran maupun rumput seperti kangkung, bayam dan umbi-umbian seperti wortel, ketela rambat, dan biji-bijian setelah ditumbuk, yaitu beras, kedelai, dedak, bekatul yang merupakan makanan sehat untuk kelinci (Smith dan Soesanto, 1988).
Tidak seperti halnya hewan mamalia lainnya, kelinci mempunyai kebiasaan makan feses yang telah dikeluarkan. Sifat ini disebut coprophagy. Keadaan ini sangat umum terjadi pada kelinci dan hal ini berdasar pada kontruksi saluran pencernaannya. Sifat coprophagy biasanya terjadi berdasarkan pada malam atau pagi hari berikutnya. Feses yang berwarna hijau muda dan konsintensi lembek dimakan lagi oleh kelinci. Feses yang dikeluarkan pada siang hari dan telah berwarna coklat serta mengeras, tidak dimakan. Hal ini memungkinan kelinci itu memanfaatkan secara penuh pencernaan bakteri di saluran bagian bawah, yaitu mengkonversikan protein asal hijauan menjadi protein bakteri yang berkualitas tinggi, mensintesis vitamin B dan memecahkan selulose atau serat menjadi energi yang berguna. Jadi sifat coprophagy sebenarnya memang menguntungkan bagi proses pencernaan (Blakely dan Bade, 1991).
Menurut Nugroho (1982), menyatakan bahwa kebutuhan kelinci akan potong tiap hari adalah hijauan dan umbi-umbian untuk kelinci dewasa adalah 0,5-1 kg/ekor/hari. Konsentrat adalah 200-300 gr/ekor/hari dengan kadar protein 12%, sedangkan untuk anak kelinci (1-6 bulan) kadar proteinnya 16 % dan ME 2500 Kcal, untuk kelinci menyusui protein 17% dan ME 2500 Kcal.

Pelet Kelinci

Pelet kelinci adalah merupakan salah satu konsetrat yang dibutuhkan kelinci . Apakah konsentrat itu? konsentrat adalah bahan pakan dengan nutrisi tinggi yang didalamnya mencakup tanaman bijian dan residu dari proses industri bijian serta bahan lain untuk konsumsi manusia. Pelet biasanya terbuat dari komponen bekatul padi halus,tepung jagung/tepung terigu,tetes tebu, garam dan lain-lain. Untuk kebutuhan serat bisa ditambah hay yang diremukan.

Kebutuhan pelet untuk kelinci harus diperhatikan jumlah kebutuhannya :

• Kelinci dewasa antara 100-140 gram
• Kelinci bunting 160-200 gram
• Kelinci umur 2,5 - 4 bulan < 70 gram

Pemberian pelet tidak boleh berlebihan karena berakibat kegemukan pada kelinci, hal ini akan menganggu kesehatan kelinci iu sendiri. Apabila terjadi kegemukan maka kelinci perlu melakukan diet atau kelinci di umbar diluar kandang biar beraktifitas sehingga kelinci mengeluarkan tinja sesering mungkin. Dibawah ini contoh komposisi pelet buatan Asep Sutisna Lembang Bandung A.Pelet tanpa rumput

• Ampas tahu 50%
• Bekatul 40%
• Tepung jagung giling 9%
• Mineral ( garam yodium ) 0,5%
• Arang aktif (arang batok kelapa/karbon norit ) 0,5%

B.Pelet dengan rumput

• Bungkil kelapa 9%
• Bekatul 50%
• Tepung jagung giling 10%
• Bungkil keledai 20%
• Rumput kering 10%
• Premix 0,5%
• Arang aktif (arang batok kelapa/karbon norit ) 0,5%

Berikut komposisi pelet Chandika Rabbit dari sebuah literatur :
1. Kelinci yg sedang dalam masa pertumbuhan,

• Jagung Giling 62.5%
• Bungkil Kedele 15%
• Dedak Halus 20%
• Tepung Tulang 1%
• Garam 1.5%
  

2. Penggemukan (Kelinci pedaging)

• Jagung Giling 42%
• Bungkil Kedele 25%
• Dedak Halus 30%
• Tepung Tulang 1.5%
• Garam 1.5%
  

3. Induk Produktif

• Jagung Giling 52%
• Bungkil Kedele 12.5%
• Dedak Halus 22.5%
• Tepung Tulang 1.5%
• Garam 1.5%

.Semoga informasi ini bermanfaat bagi teman-teman yang mau mencoba membuat pelet

What Do Rabbits Eat?

In their natural habitat rabbits eat a range of grasses, weeds, leaves, shoots, twigs as well as the bark of shrubs, bushes and trees. They will also eat crops, roots, fruit and vegetables. Rabbits are herbivores and their digestive system has evolved to be extremely efficient, with the ability to eliminate indigestible fibre rapidly and ferment those fibres that are digestible. Hay should be available at all times and form a major part of your rabbit’s diet in order to prevent boredom and aid dental wear

What to Feed Your Rabbit

Rabbits need feeding twice a day, every day (in the morning and in the evening). A good quality, heavy, earthenware food bowl is essential to keep the food dry and clean, and prevent the rabbit from tipping the food on to the floor of the hutch. Their bowls must be cleaned after every use.

Rabbits need a balanced diet with high levels of fibre to keep their gut healthy and to encourage grinding to keep their continually-growing teeth in trim to ensure that they stay happy and healthy. Fresh vegetables and hay should be provided every day.

Many small animal food brands currently available contain a mixture of ingredients of varying taste, texture, shape, size and palatability. These foods are known as coarse mixes.

An alternative to this type of diet is one that is made up of identical pellets or extrusions (biscuits). This type of diet is referred to as a mono-component diet.

Mono-component diets and coarse mixes both have their advantages and disadvantages, however when deciding which type of diet to feed an animal, the lifestyle and behavioural characteristics of the animal are the main factors to consider.

Course Mixes – Pros / Cons

Rabbits, guinea pigs and chinchillas are known as foragers and grazers therefore feeding a coarse mix, with it’s variety of ingredients, would greatly enhance their ability to perform natural behavioural patterns, by allowing the animal to decide what it eats and when.

However, when feeding a course mix, it is essential that all the ingredients are consumed for the animal to receive a balanced diet. If the animal is provided too much food, it may be able to satisfy its hunger by only consuming its favourable ingredients. This may lead to the animal’s nutritional intake suffering.

Preventing Selective Feeding

If feeding a coarse mix and the animal is selectively feeding, there are several ways in which this can be controlled. The animal’s diet can be reduced gradually to encourage them to consume more of the ingredients. If the animal is set in their ways and continues to selectively feed then feeding the animal half the required amount twice a day will prolong the overall feeding time, therefore encouraging the animal to consume more of the diet.

If after all these steps have been taken, the animal continues to selectively feed, it would be advisable to change the diet to a mono component diet in order to ensure that the animal receives a balanced diet.

Mono Component Diets – Pros / Cons

Mono component diets are specifically designed to prevent an animal from selectively feeding. All of the extrusions are of identical nutritional composition and similar shape and size. Therefore the ability for the animal to selectively feed is eliminated.

It could be argued that providing a naturally foraging animal with a mono component diet is reducing its ability to perform natural behaviour. However, if the animal persistently selectively feeds, in order to ensure good nutrition and to promote efficient gut function and dental wear, taking away the animals opportunity of being fed a course mix is the best option for animal and owner.

To Summarise:

Some animals are naturally very fussy eaters, and if all efforts to encourage them to consume a coarse mix fail, then providing a mono component diet is the best option. It is always easier to encourage an animal to eat a good diet from birth. Therefore, if the animal is introduced to different ingredients correctly at a young age, then the likelihood of it selectively feeding later in life is reduced.

Changing your Rabbit’s diet

When changing your rabbit’s diet you must introduce new food gradually. Mix about one quarter of the new food with three quarters of the old food on the first day and then gradually increase the new food and decrease the old food over a 10-day period. This should make sure that your rabbit has no tummy upsets.

Treats

Treats are so called because that’s just what they should be – a “treat”. If fed correctly they are not detrimental to a rabbit and they will love them. However, treats are designed to be an extremely small element of the animal’s diet, and overfeeding may lead to health problems such as obesity, dental problems and heart disease.

Too much green food will cause diarrhoea. If you feed your rabbit human food, remember to avoid foods that are high in calories, sugary or contain too much fat. To help keep your rabbit’s teeth healthy, you need to provide lots of hay and perhaps a gnawing block and safe twigs to chew, such as apple, hazel or willow.

You can also feed special treats from your garden such as fresh grass, parsley, dandelion, carrot, apple, kiwi, alfalfa sprouts, celery, broccoli, sprouts, cauliflower, kale, spinach, cabbage leaves, peas, swede, tomatoes and raspberries. Many plants in your garden can upset your rabbit, to find out more, visit the Is My Rabbit Well? section.

A number of specially made Rabbit treats are also available from your local pet shop.

Drinking Bottle

It is vital that you ensure there is fresh drinking water available at all times.

The best way to provide fresh drinking water is to use a gravity-fed water bottle, attached to the front of the hutch. Use one of the large ballpoint bottles to prevent dripping and ensure a constant supply is available. Water bowls are not suitable as they are easily tipped over and can get contaminated.