Sepasang kelinci telah ditangkap karena serangkaian pembunuhan terhadap ular di dekat Cairns.
Selama tiga minggu Armando Del Manso berpikir anjingnya yang bertanggung jawab atas banyaknya ular yang mati dengan bekas gigitan diatas rumput ditanahnya setiap pagi.
Tapi ternyata ia salah, itu adalah kelinci yang mengamuk membunuh ular-ular itu.
Dia menyaksikan langsung bagaimana 2 ekor kelinci bekeja sama menyerang seekor ular King Bown.
"Ular itu berdiri mendongakkan kepalanya diudara siap menyerang, namun dua ekor kelinci itu mengitarinya, dan mengamuk mengigitinya, dan ular itu mati dalam dua menit." kata Del Manso.
"Saya kaget sekali melihat itu, ini benar-benar luar biasa. Siapa yang akan percaya cerita saya, mereka akan pikir saya gila. Maka saya merekam adegan lain saat seekor kelinci mengejar dan berusaha membunuh ular lain yang lebih kecil." ujar Del Manso.
Ahli Wildlife Paulus O'Callaghan dari Cairns Wildlife Safari mengatakan itu adalah pertama kalinya ia mendengar kelinci menyerang ular. (luki.co.nr)
Jumat, 31 Desember 2010
Sayembara Menangkap Kelinci
Kepolisian, ABRI, dan badan intelejen BIA saling menyombong bahwa merekalah yang terbaik dalam menangkap penjarah yang sedang marak saat sekarang. Soeharto merasa perlu untuk melakukan tes terhadap hal ini.
Soeharto melepas seekor kelinci kedalam hutan dan ketiga kelompok pengikut tes di atas harus berusaha menangkapnya
BIA masuk ke hutan. Mereka menempatkan informan-informan di setiap pelosok hutan itu. Mereka menanyai setiap pohon, rumput, semak dan binatang di hutan itu. Tidak ada pelosok hutan yang tidak di interogasi. Setelah tiga bulan penyelidikan hutan secara menyeluruh akhirnya BIA mengambil kesimpulan bahwa kelinci tersebut ternyata tidak pernah ada.
ABRI masuk ke hutan. Setelah dua minggu kerja tanpa hasil, mereka akhirnya membakar hutan sehingga setiap mahluk hidup didalamnya terpanggang tanpa ada kekecualian. Akhirnya kelinci tersebut tertangkap juga hitam legam, mati ... tentu saja.
Kepolisian masuk hutan. Dua jam kemudian, mereka keluar dari hutan sambil membawa seekor tikus putih yang telah hancur-hancuran badannya dipukuli. Tikus putih itu berteriak-teriak: "Ya ... ya ... saya mengaku! Saya kelinci! Saya kelinci!"
Soeharto melepas seekor kelinci kedalam hutan dan ketiga kelompok pengikut tes di atas harus berusaha menangkapnya
BIA masuk ke hutan. Mereka menempatkan informan-informan di setiap pelosok hutan itu. Mereka menanyai setiap pohon, rumput, semak dan binatang di hutan itu. Tidak ada pelosok hutan yang tidak di interogasi. Setelah tiga bulan penyelidikan hutan secara menyeluruh akhirnya BIA mengambil kesimpulan bahwa kelinci tersebut ternyata tidak pernah ada.
ABRI masuk ke hutan. Setelah dua minggu kerja tanpa hasil, mereka akhirnya membakar hutan sehingga setiap mahluk hidup didalamnya terpanggang tanpa ada kekecualian. Akhirnya kelinci tersebut tertangkap juga hitam legam, mati ... tentu saja.
Kepolisian masuk hutan. Dua jam kemudian, mereka keluar dari hutan sambil membawa seekor tikus putih yang telah hancur-hancuran badannya dipukuli. Tikus putih itu berteriak-teriak: "Ya ... ya ... saya mengaku! Saya kelinci! Saya kelinci!"
Rabu, 22 Desember 2010
Ciri-ciri kehamilan
Setelah 7 hari dikawinkan, biasanya janin mulai tumbuh. Tetapi hal ini belum tentu mudah mengenali kehamilan secara pasti. Hanya peternak yang sudah lama saja yang peka letak kehamilan kelinci pada umur 7 hari. Pada umur perkawinan 14 hari kita sudah bisa mendapatkan kejelasan. Ciri-cirinya di antaranya ialah. bagian mulut sedikit kemerah-merahan. (2) terkadang merasa stress, mengorek-ngorek kandang. Kalau missal dikeluarkan dari kandang dan menemukan tanah, ia akan langsung mengaduk-aduk tanah sebagai tempat persembunyian. (pada umur 17 hari biasanya stress meningkat). Tak usah buru-buru memberikan kotak. Tunggu sampai umur kehamilan diatas 25 hari. (3) makan banyak dan selalu lapar. Anda harus serius dalam hal pakan, jangan sampai sering kelaparan sehingga stress bertambah. Kekurangan pakan dan air minum bisa mengakibatkan kanibal, atau tidak mau menyusui. 4) pada umur kehamilan 17 hari sudah bisa diraba bagian bawah perut. Cara meraba yang akurat dengan mengangkat kelinci lalu ditaruh dipangkuan kita. Elus-elus dulu sebelum tangan kita masuk ke bagian perut bawah. Sebab kalau tangan kita langsung nyosor bagian perut kelinci hamil bisa berontak. Kalau sudah diraba, elus-elus pelan, kalau belum yakin terasa, tekan sedikit jari anda, meraba rata bagian perut, bagian tengah sampai belakang. Jika hamil akan terasa beberapa benjolan seperti kelereng. pada umur kandungan 23 hari sangat jelas terasa dan pada umur 29 hari saat induk mulai gusar dengan hidung memerah biji-biji “kelereng” di dalam perut itu semakin menurun mendekati vagina.
Kalau sudah dikawinkan tetapi pada umur 35 hari tidak berhasil itu bisa jadi bunting semu. Atau saat mengawinkan tidak benar.
Apakah perlu tidak usah menunggu 35 hari kita bisa mengawinkan?
Jika Anda yakin bahwa kelinci tidak hamil boleh saja. Lakukan pada umur kehamilan 20 hari sejak kawin yang Anda anggap gagal tersebut. Tetapi jika Anda ragu apakah kelinci gagal hamil atau memang benar hamil, sebaiknya kita bersabar sampai umur perkawinan benar-benar melewati 30 hari. Sebab kalau kita nekad mengawinka lagi pada saat kelinci hamil bisa jadi nanti hamil susulan. Harus diingat, tidak setiap kelinci yang hamil menolak kawin, sebagian ada yang mau kawin. (Penjelasan ini sebagian disandur dari Buku Kelinci Pemeliharaan Secara Ilmiah, Tepat dan Terpadu.)
Saat Kelinci Hendak Melahirkan
Saat hendak melahirkan kelinci nampak gusar dan gelisah. Mereka merasakan perutnya bergerak-gerak. Tanda-tanda ini dibaca oleh sang induk sebagai bahwa sebentar lagi akan terjadi kelahirkan. Biasanya kelinci melahirkan antara umur 28-34 hari. Namun kebanyakan kelinci melahirkan pada usia kandungan 29-30 hari. Masa-masa hamil membutuhkan perhatian khusus. Minggu pertama setelah kawin peternak harus memperhatikan pakan yang baik, yakni rumput, sayuran dan pellet. Jangan sampai telat air minumnya.
Pelet harus tersedia siang dan malam. Jangan sampai kotak makanan kosong sama sekali. Sayuran setengah kering diberikan sedikit pada siang hari. Sorenya diberikan rumput sebesar badan kelinci. Usahakan malam harinya, sekitar jam 10 atau jam 11 diberi tambahan rumput atau umbi, wortel, atau bisa juga ketela pohon. Kelinci hamil seperti halnya manusia. Banyak keinginan untuk makan. Karena itu supaya anaknya sehat dan pola menyusuinya bagus pakan tersebut harus dipenuhi. Selama masa kehamilan kelinci biasanya gelisah dalam tiga periode, yakni minggu pertama dengan membesarnya janin. Minggu kedua bergesernya janin, dan minggu akhir, 3 hari sebelum melahirkan.Pada usia kandungan 27 hari usahakan sudah tersedia kotak untuk calon jabang bayi. Berikan jerami secukupnya agar Induk merasa tenang. Jika kotak tidak diadakan, induk akan merasa stress berat karena ia merasa khawatir tidak bisa melindungi anak-anaknya. Hal lain yang harus diperjelas adalah pemenuhan minum. Orang bilang kelinci cukup mengonsumsi kandungan air yang ada dalam rumput. Mereka berasumsi rumput mengandung 80% lebih air sehingga tidak perlu diberikan minum. Ini pola pikir kebanyakan yang sembrono dan ngawur. Memang benar kadar air rumput sudah banyak, namun sebagai makhluk hidup kelinci juga butuh minum. Analoginya, cukupkah manusia hanya mengonsumsi air dari kuah sayuran?Jelas tidak. Kelinci juga butuh minum. Untuk kelinci yang tidak hamil cukup ½ gelas perhari. Sedangkan kelinci hamil membutuhkan 1 gelas perhari.Anak kelinci yang lahir dari induk sehat dengan mengonsumsi air secara baik akan terjamin kesehatan dan kekebalan tubuhnya dibanding anakan induk yang tidak diberikan air. aat-saat menjelang kelahiran, induk akan mencabuti bulunya. Biarkan saja. Usahakan saat hendak melahirkan jangan dilihat terlalu dekat karena akan menimbulkan kekhawatiran anak-anaknya dimangsa manusia. Karena itu persiapan sebelum melahirkan harus dipenuhi secara baik sehingga kita tidak perlu khawatir adanya anak yang kejepit dikandang atau ketidaknyamanan kandang. Setelah 5 menit melahirkan, berikan air segar dan sayuran. Perlu diketahui, Induk setelah melahirkan akan mengalami dehidrasi dan rasa lapar yang hebat. Karena itu berikan perhatian dengan sayuran, wortel dan minuman, syukur ditambah vitamin. Berikan kasih sayang dengan cara mengelus-elus kepala dan badannya saat sang induk makan. Tapi jangan coba-coba memegang anak-anaknya yang baru lahir, sebab sang induk akan marah dan cemas. Usahakan kalau terpaksa harus mengatur anak-anaknya karena jatuh dari kandang atau kejepit jangan pakai tangan kosong. Pakailah plastik yang bersih atau koran. Sebab jika daging sang anak bau tangan manusia ada sebagian induk yang enggan menyusuinya.
Pelet harus tersedia siang dan malam. Jangan sampai kotak makanan kosong sama sekali. Sayuran setengah kering diberikan sedikit pada siang hari. Sorenya diberikan rumput sebesar badan kelinci. Usahakan malam harinya, sekitar jam 10 atau jam 11 diberi tambahan rumput atau umbi, wortel, atau bisa juga ketela pohon. Kelinci hamil seperti halnya manusia. Banyak keinginan untuk makan. Karena itu supaya anaknya sehat dan pola menyusuinya bagus pakan tersebut harus dipenuhi. Selama masa kehamilan kelinci biasanya gelisah dalam tiga periode, yakni minggu pertama dengan membesarnya janin. Minggu kedua bergesernya janin, dan minggu akhir, 3 hari sebelum melahirkan.Breeding Rabbits
Definitions
- A female rabbit is called a doe. A male rabbit is called a buck.
- When referring to the parents of a rabbit, the mother is called the dam, and the father is called the sire.
- When you mate two rabbits together, this is called breeding.
- When you check to see if the doe is pregnant or when you breed her again before she is due to give birth, this is called testing.
- When you put a box in the hutch that is lined with hay, this is called nesting.
- When the doe gives birth, this is called kindling.
- The period of time between breeding and kindling is called the gestation period.
- She gives birth to a bunch of bunnies called kits. This bunch of bunnies is called a litter.
- When you take the young rabbits away from the mother, this is called weaning.
Introduction
A small breed doe is normally ready to mate when she is 5 months old, and a buck is ready at 6 months. The medium size doe is ready to breed when she is 6 months old and the buck at 7 months. The heavy breed doe is ready at 8 months and the buck is ready at 9 months.
It's usually a good idea to select rabbits to breed whose ancestry has evidence of good productivity and good genetics. That's where productivity records and pedigrees listing show winnings come in handy. Keep productivity and show records of your herd just for this purpose.
You may keep a ratio of one buck to 10 does if you wish. The buck may be bred up to 7 times a week effectively. Sometimes, you can use the buck twice in one day. The most I use a buck is twice a week.
Keep the following principles in mind when you want to breed your rabbits:
Only mate rabbits of the same breed. See Rabbit Raising - The Basics. Exceptions to this include breeding for meat, pets or genetic experimentation. You cannot sell a pedigree rabbit that has mixed blood in its background going back 4 generations.
Do not keep more than one rabbit in each cage when the rabbit is 3 months or older. Rabbits mature faster when alone, do not fight, and do not breed, thus eliminating unexpected results.
Before breeding, check the bottom of the cage of both the doe and buck for evidence of diarrhea or loose stools. Do not breed the rabbit having this condition until it has been adequately treated. Also check the genitals of both rabbits for any signs of disease or infection (for example, extreme redness, discharge, sores or scabbiness).
When ready to breed the doe, take it to the buck's cage. Never bring the buck to the doe's cage. The reason for this is that the buck has less tendency to breed in the doe's cage. He's too busy sniffing around the cage.
Some leave the doe with the buck overnight. Others put the doe in, watch it, and when they have mated, remove the doe. If you do the latter, put the doe back in with the buck 1 to 12 hours after the initial breeding. This will increase the likelihood of pregnancy and may increase the number of offspring.
Keep a calendar and accurate records of the day you breed the doe. You should test her for pregnancy between the 10th and 14th day after the initial breeding. There are two ways to do this. The overall preferred method is to palpate the lower abdomen of the doe with your thumb and forefinger checking for nodules about the size of a marble. The other method is not only more risky but also more inaccurate. This method is to mate the doe with the buck again. This can cause problems because the doe has two uterine horns, each of which can carry babies. It is possible for one horn to be fertilized on the first mating and the second to be fertilized on the second mating. This will create a hormonal imbalance and cause the babies in both uteri to not form right, causing her to pass blobs instead of babies at the date of kindling. There is also a chance these "mummified" blobs could cause complications leading to the death of the doe.
You should place a nest box in her cage on the 29th day after breeding. Thirty-one days after breeding, she should kindle her litter.
Who Can Be Bred To Whom?
Never breed brothers to sisters. Other combinations are fine: father-to-daughter, mother-to-son, cousins, etc. Until you gain some knowledge as to how genetics works with inbreeding, I would recommend your not breeding closely related pairs.
As mentioned before, mate the same breeds together unless you are trying to get meat rabbits with certain characteristics or you are doing genetic experiments or you don't care about the fate of the offspring. You cannot sell the offspring as pedigree if their ancestry is not of the same breed going back four generations.
You may mate rabbits of the same breed having different colors. Keep in mind, though, that there are many combinations of possibilities when mixing colors. It is usually best to mate rabbits having the same color to start off with until you know more about how the colors interact. See the section on genetics for more information on colors. Also, join the national specialty group for the breed you are interested in raising. They usually have literature on how to develop the best color, size, and shape of your rabbit.
Avoid breeding rabbits that have genetic defects such as tooth malocclusion (wolf teeth) or moon eye (cloudy cornea), or produces offspring whose skull does not come together (except in dwarfs, where approximately 25% are born too small with deformed head or legs - the offspring are called peanuts). Determine whether the sire or dam is responsible for passing the genetic defect and eliminate it for breeding purposes.
Evaluating A Rabbit's Reproductive Life
A rabbit may normally start breeding at the age of 6 months for the small to medium size breeds and 8 to 9 months for the heavy breeds. The gestation period (time between breeding and kindling) is 31 days. After the doe has kindled, I normally re-breed her at 6 weeks and wean the litter at 5-7 weeks. This cycle continues until she is about 4 years old or until her production is unsatisfactory.
I review the herd records every quarter to determine which rabbits are not producing up to par and eliminate them. In October through December, some rabbits go into what is called moulting. At this period, many do not conceive. If you have lights on all the time in your rabbitry, this will help. Rabbits are like chickens that lay eggs only if there is enough light. Raising most of my rabbits outside, I take this problem into consideration when evaluating them. Also, if it gets too hot in the summer, especially for those who live in the Southern U.S., the buck produces less viable sperm and the conception rate goes down. Some people keep their bucks air conditioned to keep the conception rate high.
Selasa, 21 Desember 2010
How to Care for Newborn Baby Rabbits
WHERE TO PUT THE BABIES
Make the babies a soft nest area in a box with clean towels. We like to put one folded towel on the bottom and another bunched on top of that, so the babies can snuggle into it. You can also purchase soft nesting wool from a pet store and put that on top of the towel. Cover the box with a towel so it is dark, making sure that there will be enough air so the babies do not suffocate. Leaving about a one inch gap at the top is usually sufficient. Keep the babies in an out-of-the way, QUIET area, such as an adult's bedroom. If the room temperature is between 68-72 degrees you will not need to provide extra heat, but if it's cooler than that you will need to provide extra warmth. Use a heating pad set on low and slip it under one half only of the bottom towel in the box. We do it this way so that the babies can move to a cooler area if it gets too warm. ALWAYS make sure that the heating pad is covered, as babies can burn themselves very badly on an exposed heating pad.
If the babies were with their mamma, but she is not caring for them (and you are sure she is ignoring them) you will need to separate her from them, so they will not get hurt. If she has created a nest, use that material in the box that you have made to hold the babies. Rabbits nurse only ONE TIME a day, so if you think that she is not caring for them based only on the fact you don't see them feed...think again. But if you are sure she is neglecting them, if they are dehydrated, cold, obviously ignored, of course, something must be done!
WHAT TO FEED THE BABIES
Baby rabbits should be fed Kitten Milk Replacer (KMR), which you can buy at pet stores, or sometimes even a local veterinarian's office. Because rabbit milk is the most caloric of all mammals, we add in one tablespoon of cream to each can of KMR. Unless you are familiar with and skilled at tube feeding babies, use an eye dropper or sterile oral syringe, which can be purchased at most pharmacies. Feed baby rabbits no more than twice a day. Baby rabbits normally feed only ONCE a day, but you're not mama and the KMR is not as caloric as rabbit milk---so if baby does not take in the total amount quoted below in one feeding, you may split the feedings in half, AM/PM - but no more frequently as it can cause severe gastrointestinal distress. Overfeeding is a leading cause of death in infant [domestic] rabbits.
If this is a wild rabbit, handle it ONLY during feedings and make sure to keep it in a quiet, safe, out-of-the-way area of your home, as excessive handling and human interaction can be extremely stressful and potentially fatal, and will lessen its chance or survival once released back into the wild.
Following is a guideline for the daily amount to feed a domestic OR wild rabbit who will be approximately 5-6 pounds as an adult (average rabbit size). You can increase the amounts as needed for larger breeds. Remember, if the rabbit does not eat the full amount listed, feed the remainder later, but do not feed more than twice a day.
For the BEST results, go to your local health food store (GNC has this) and get a bottle of ACIDOPHILUS. Ask for the capsules that have the "grainy stuff" inside (they are easier to mix than the “powdery stuff”) and add it to the KMR at each feeding.
Using acidophilus in addition to KMR will GREATLY increase the baby rabbit's chance of survival, because it helps keep the bacterial balance in a baby's tummy adequate.
Age
KMR
Acidophilus
1 capsule = 1 cc
Newborn
5 cc
1/2 cc
1 week
10-15 cc
1/2 cc
2 weeks
26-30 cc
1 cc
3 AND 4 weeks, until weaned (you may wean at 4 weeks of age)
30 cc
1 cc
Baby rabbits feed from their mothers while lying on their backs. You may loosely wrap baby in a soft face cloth or hand towel and lay it on your lap or in the crook of your arm. If bunny will NOT eat this way, of course, do the best you can. It is ABSOLUTELY CRUCIAL to let the baby eat at it's own pace---especially if it is not suckling from you (i.e. if you are using a dropper or syringe to feed it...). If you squirt the liquid in too quickly you can aspirate (get liquid in) the lungs and the rabbit will suffocate.
After each feeding it is important to make the bunny defecate and urinate to keep the intestinal tract and urinary system running smoothly. Use a soft cloth or a cotton ball moistened with warm water and gently stroke from between the bunny's front legs all the way down over the anal area until the bunny starts producing stool and urine, and keep stroking until the bunny stops. You are replicating the behavior of the mother rabbit who would lick her young to stimulate them to go to the bathroom (as well as to keep the nest clean). The stool will be soft and may be varying shades of green and yellow. Be sure to clean baby's mouth with a damp cloth or paper towel, so that no milk dries in the hair.
Baby rabbit eyes open at about 10 days of age. You may start introducing them to hay and pellets at this point, but no veggies or fruits yet. Just leave some hay and pellets in a corner of the box where the babies can easily get to them. Make sure it the pellets are plain, high fiber and fresh, with no added goodies such as dried banana chips or seeds. Don't ever leave a deep water dish in which a baby could drown; instead, use something shallow and rinse and fill it frequently.
IF THESE ARE WILD RABBIT BABIES: Start giving them small amounts of pesticide-free greens and timothy or oat hay at this point (grass, dandelions, weeds, parsley...), but you do not need to introduce them to pellets, as the goal is to release them back into the wild where the food is not that high in protein. If they are eating pellets and then released into the wild, the change in diet could kill them.
Again, it is critical that you handle wild babies only for feeding and cleaning, or for wound care – as necessary. Keep them in a quiet area away from family goings-on. The goal is to keep them as wild as possible so that they will have a better chance when re-released.
Wild rabbits do not make good pets. The do not become docile like their domesticated cousins and they will be happier in the wild, where they belong. It is illegal and cruel to keep a healthy wild animal as a “pet.”
If you can find a wildlife rehabilitator in your are who will care for and release the babies, this is your best bet.
Wild rabbits should be released as soon as they are eating hay and greens, are urinating, defecating and drinking well and are approximately 5 inches in body length. They will be small, but the longer you keep them, the more agitated and difficult to handle they will become and the less likely their chances for survival in the wild. Make sure to release them in a safe place, where no pesticides are used--and where they will not run out into a street! It is best to release them in the early morning so that they have the day to acclimate. Community parks are NOT the place to release ANY rabbit, let alone a wild one. Prior to the release date, try taking drives and/or walks in the dawn & dusk hours (rabbits are crepuscular) in rural and country-ish areas and find out where other wild rabbits live. We choose to release our babies very early in the morning (5AM) or lat in the afternoon (4-5PM) in order that they have some time to acclimate and find a place to hide. We always make sure to leave several days supply of hay and water, so the babies will not starve or dehydrate will acclimating to their surroundings. It is best to leave the hay and water right next to large bushes, so the rabbits will have some place to run into should a predator come along while they are eating/drinking.
Make the babies a soft nest area in a box with clean towels. We like to put one folded towel on the bottom and another bunched on top of that, so the babies can snuggle into it. You can also purchase soft nesting wool from a pet store and put that on top of the towel. Cover the box with a towel so it is dark, making sure that there will be enough air so the babies do not suffocate. Leaving about a one inch gap at the top is usually sufficient. Keep the babies in an out-of-the way, QUIET area, such as an adult's bedroom. If the room temperature is between 68-72 degrees you will not need to provide extra heat, but if it's cooler than that you will need to provide extra warmth. Use a heating pad set on low and slip it under one half only of the bottom towel in the box. We do it this way so that the babies can move to a cooler area if it gets too warm. ALWAYS make sure that the heating pad is covered, as babies can burn themselves very badly on an exposed heating pad.
If the babies were with their mamma, but she is not caring for them (and you are sure she is ignoring them) you will need to separate her from them, so they will not get hurt. If she has created a nest, use that material in the box that you have made to hold the babies. Rabbits nurse only ONE TIME a day, so if you think that she is not caring for them based only on the fact you don't see them feed...think again. But if you are sure she is neglecting them, if they are dehydrated, cold, obviously ignored, of course, something must be done!
WHAT TO FEED THE BABIES
Baby rabbits should be fed Kitten Milk Replacer (KMR), which you can buy at pet stores, or sometimes even a local veterinarian's office. Because rabbit milk is the most caloric of all mammals, we add in one tablespoon of cream to each can of KMR. Unless you are familiar with and skilled at tube feeding babies, use an eye dropper or sterile oral syringe, which can be purchased at most pharmacies. Feed baby rabbits no more than twice a day. Baby rabbits normally feed only ONCE a day, but you're not mama and the KMR is not as caloric as rabbit milk---so if baby does not take in the total amount quoted below in one feeding, you may split the feedings in half, AM/PM - but no more frequently as it can cause severe gastrointestinal distress. Overfeeding is a leading cause of death in infant [domestic] rabbits.
If this is a wild rabbit, handle it ONLY during feedings and make sure to keep it in a quiet, safe, out-of-the-way area of your home, as excessive handling and human interaction can be extremely stressful and potentially fatal, and will lessen its chance or survival once released back into the wild.
Following is a guideline for the daily amount to feed a domestic OR wild rabbit who will be approximately 5-6 pounds as an adult (average rabbit size). You can increase the amounts as needed for larger breeds. Remember, if the rabbit does not eat the full amount listed, feed the remainder later, but do not feed more than twice a day.
For the BEST results, go to your local health food store (GNC has this) and get a bottle of ACIDOPHILUS. Ask for the capsules that have the "grainy stuff" inside (they are easier to mix than the “powdery stuff”) and add it to the KMR at each feeding.
Using acidophilus in addition to KMR will GREATLY increase the baby rabbit's chance of survival, because it helps keep the bacterial balance in a baby's tummy adequate.
Age
KMR
Acidophilus
1 capsule = 1 cc
Newborn
5 cc
1/2 cc
1 week
10-15 cc
1/2 cc
2 weeks
26-30 cc
1 cc
3 AND 4 weeks, until weaned (you may wean at 4 weeks of age)
30 cc
1 cc
Baby rabbits feed from their mothers while lying on their backs. You may loosely wrap baby in a soft face cloth or hand towel and lay it on your lap or in the crook of your arm. If bunny will NOT eat this way, of course, do the best you can. It is ABSOLUTELY CRUCIAL to let the baby eat at it's own pace---especially if it is not suckling from you (i.e. if you are using a dropper or syringe to feed it...). If you squirt the liquid in too quickly you can aspirate (get liquid in) the lungs and the rabbit will suffocate.
After each feeding it is important to make the bunny defecate and urinate to keep the intestinal tract and urinary system running smoothly. Use a soft cloth or a cotton ball moistened with warm water and gently stroke from between the bunny's front legs all the way down over the anal area until the bunny starts producing stool and urine, and keep stroking until the bunny stops. You are replicating the behavior of the mother rabbit who would lick her young to stimulate them to go to the bathroom (as well as to keep the nest clean). The stool will be soft and may be varying shades of green and yellow. Be sure to clean baby's mouth with a damp cloth or paper towel, so that no milk dries in the hair.
Baby rabbit eyes open at about 10 days of age. You may start introducing them to hay and pellets at this point, but no veggies or fruits yet. Just leave some hay and pellets in a corner of the box where the babies can easily get to them. Make sure it the pellets are plain, high fiber and fresh, with no added goodies such as dried banana chips or seeds. Don't ever leave a deep water dish in which a baby could drown; instead, use something shallow and rinse and fill it frequently.
IF THESE ARE WILD RABBIT BABIES: Start giving them small amounts of pesticide-free greens and timothy or oat hay at this point (grass, dandelions, weeds, parsley...), but you do not need to introduce them to pellets, as the goal is to release them back into the wild where the food is not that high in protein. If they are eating pellets and then released into the wild, the change in diet could kill them.
Again, it is critical that you handle wild babies only for feeding and cleaning, or for wound care – as necessary. Keep them in a quiet area away from family goings-on. The goal is to keep them as wild as possible so that they will have a better chance when re-released.
Wild rabbits do not make good pets. The do not become docile like their domesticated cousins and they will be happier in the wild, where they belong. It is illegal and cruel to keep a healthy wild animal as a “pet.”
If you can find a wildlife rehabilitator in your are who will care for and release the babies, this is your best bet.
Wild rabbits should be released as soon as they are eating hay and greens, are urinating, defecating and drinking well and are approximately 5 inches in body length. They will be small, but the longer you keep them, the more agitated and difficult to handle they will become and the less likely their chances for survival in the wild. Make sure to release them in a safe place, where no pesticides are used--and where they will not run out into a street! It is best to release them in the early morning so that they have the day to acclimate. Community parks are NOT the place to release ANY rabbit, let alone a wild one. Prior to the release date, try taking drives and/or walks in the dawn & dusk hours (rabbits are crepuscular) in rural and country-ish areas and find out where other wild rabbits live. We choose to release our babies very early in the morning (5AM) or lat in the afternoon (4-5PM) in order that they have some time to acclimate and find a place to hide. We always make sure to leave several days supply of hay and water, so the babies will not starve or dehydrate will acclimating to their surroundings. It is best to leave the hay and water right next to large bushes, so the rabbits will have some place to run into should a predator come along while they are eating/drinking.
Senin, 20 Desember 2010
Menyapih (Weaning) Anak kelinci (Kits)
Menyapih adalah merupakan proses belajar bagi kelinci kecil untuk hidup mandiri dan terlepas dari ketergantungan induknya. Sebetulnya proses penyapihan ini tidak perlu dilakukan secara manual karena secara otomatis si induk sendiri yang akan melakukannya jika dirasakannya secara insting bahwa anak-anak mereka sudah dapat mempertahankan kehidupan mereka sendiri.
Tapi berhubung ada tujuan lain dari pemilik, terutama untuk mempercepat periode produksi dan agar si anak-anak kelinci ini dapat segera dijual maka mau tidak mau proses penyapihan harus segera dilaksanakan. Dan biasanya para pemilik/peternak memiliki periode tertentu dalam menentukan masa penyapihan, kira-kira pada anak kelinci yang berusia 1-1,5 bulan. Alasan lain mempercepat penyapihan adalah adanya kondisi tidak aman bagi si anak kelinci (dalam usia kurang dari masa penyapihan). Contoh yang sering terjadi adalah bahwa si induk tidak mau menyusui anaknya, atau meninggalkan anaknya begitu saja setelah lahir. Untuk hal ini akan kita pisahkan materi penulisannya pada kesempatan yang lain. Tulisan pada post ini adalah hanya untuk kategori normal penyapihan.
Sebetulnya kapan sich waktunya untuk menyapih kelinci?
Kelinci dapat disapih mulai usia 4 minggu, karena pada masa ini produksi susu dari si induk mulai sedikit dan sudah saatnya mulai memisahkan anak-anak kelinci dari induknya. Langkah awal penyapihan adalah dengan memilih anak kelinci yang memiliki tubuh paling besar dari kelompoknya untuk dipindahkan pertama kali. Kemudian pada 2 hari berikutnya lakukan kembali untuk anak kelinci yang lain. Lakukan hal ini sampai anak-anak kelinci semuanya terpisah dari induknya. Nah pada saat inilah si kelinci kecil mulai belajar untuk makan dan minum sendiri. Pada saat ini yang perlu diperhatikan adalah kondisi dari masing-masing anak kelinci tersebut, jika saja ditemukan salah satu dari mereka memiliki kesulitan dalam hal makan dan minumnya sehingga akan mengganggu pertumbuhannya maka kembalikan ia ke induknya dan biarkan ia bersama induknya lebih lama dibandingkan dengan yang lainnya.
Yang penting juga untuk diperhatikan adalah bahwa, kelinci-kelinci kecil ini sangat rentan sekali terhadap penyakit yang namanya diare. Kebersihan kandang, peralatan makan/minum dan pakan yang diberikan harus lebih diperketat. Penting juga untuk memperhatikan tanda-tanda yang bisa diketahui apakah anak-anak kelinci ini ada yang terserang diare.
Masa-masa kritis dari proses penyapihan ini adalah sampai si anak kelinci memiliki usia 2 bulan, jika mereka semua dapat melewati masa ini maka resiko kematian akan semakin berkurang.
Finally, selamat mencoba and Good luck.
Perawatan Kelinci Netherland Dwarf
Sistem pencernaan dari kelinci Netherland Dwarf sangat sensitif, bahkan lebih sensitif dari kebanyakan breeds. Jadi, penting untuk memberi makan hewan peliharaan kelinci diet yang baik segar, kualitas makanan pelet baik dalam jumlah yang tepat. Pelet segar, yang telah disimpan tidak lebih dari delapan minggu, pellet bebas dari jamur dan kontaminasi lainnya apapun. Yang terbaik adalah pakan pellet kelinci yang memiliki persentase tinggi serat (18-20%) dan persentase rendah lemak% (2-3) dan protein (14-15%). Setelah menemukan pellet yang baik tetap padanya. Perpindahan merek bisa mengganggu sistem pencernaan kelinci dan menyebabkan masalah pencernaan. Jika karena beberapa alasan harus mengubah makanan, melakukannya secara bertahap, dari waktu ke waktu satu minggu. Memperkenalkan pelet baru dicampur dengan arus dalam suatu campuran 80 sekarang/20 baru. Lalu setelah beberapa hari memperkenalkan campuran 50/50, maka campuran 20/80, maka 100% dari pelet baru. Dengan cara ini Anda sistem pencernaan kelinci akan digunakan untuk pelet baru tanpa masalah. Pastikan untuk tidak lebih dari pakan untuk kelinci kerdil . Jumlah harian pelet untuk memberikan kelinci adalah 2-3 oz. Per hari. Jumlah ini dapat disesuaikan tergantung pada berat dewasa kelinci Anda. Hati-hati saat memperkenalkan pakan yang baru baru, tunggu selama 24 jam setelah pertama kali untuk melihat seberapa baik ditoleransi kelinci itu. Jika tidak ada tanda-tanda masalah seperti kotoran atau diare.
Pembiakan Kelinci
Postur tubuh kelinci jantan dan betina dalam satu jenis sulit dibedakan. Perbedaan tersebut hanya bisa dilihat dari alat kelamin yang berbeda dekat selengkangan kaki. Kelinci betina memiliki alat kelamin berupa bulatan bergaris merah dan jika ditekan tidak akanberubah panjang. Sedangkan kelinci jantan mempunyai alat kelamin yang jika ditekan akan memanjang keluar dan dilengkapi 2 bulatan seperti daging tumbuh.
Kelinci yang bisa dijadikan indukan adalah berumut 4-5 bulan dan pilih yang bobotnya paling besar diantara saudara kandungnya yang lain. Untuk mengetahui kelinci betina siap kawin, maka perlu dilakukan pengecekan setiap hari. Ciri-cirinya, alat kelamin berwarna merah tua. Selanjutnya 1 ekor betina yang siap kawin dimasukkan ke kandang dengan 1 ekor kelinci jantan. Proses perkawinan akan terjadi dalam 1 menit. Keberhasilan proses perkawinan ditandai dengan rebahnya tubuh kelinci jantan setelah kawin. Biasanya sehari 1 ekor jantan bisa mengawini 4-10 ekor kelinci betina selang waktu 2 jam sekali secara bergantian.
Betina yang telah dikawini langsung dipisahkan dari pejantan. Setelah 2 minggu nafsu makan betina akan bertambah, sehingga pemberian pakan pun sedikit bertambah, sekitar 1,5 genggam tangan manusia dewasa. Hal tersebut menandakan kelinci betina hamil. Jika perut kelinci betina diraba saat 3 minggu setelah kawin maka akan terasa ada benjolan seperti kelereng. Kelinci akan melahirkan anaknya setelah usia kehamilan 1 bulan. Anak kelinci 60% mirip indukan kelinci jantan.
Satu ekor betina dapat melahirkan sebanay 4-10 ekor anakan dengan tingkat mortalitas (kematian) sekitar 40%. Sebaiknya 3 hari sebelum anak kelinci lahir, disediakan kotak khusus anakan, berupa kotak kayu tanpa tutup ukuran 20 x 30 cm. Kotak kayu itu kemudian dimasukkan kedalam kandang kelinci betina yang akan melahirkan.
Saat anaknya lahir secara alamiah, induk betina akan merontokan bulunya sendiri agar anak-anaknya tetap hangat dari bulu hasil rontokan. Sampai usia 2 minggu anak kelinci hanya meminum susu ibunya. Barulah setelah itu ikut makan pakan induknya sedikit-sedikit. Kelinci betina yang baru melahirkan lebih sering menyusui pada malam hari.
Umur 2 bulan anakan bisa dipisahkan/disapih dari induknya. Namun jika ingin mengejar produksi, induk betina yang kelaminnya merah tua lagi setelah 2 minggu malahirkan anaknya, bisa dikawinkan lagi dan bisa langsung dipisahkan dari anaknya. Tidak perlu khawatir dengan anaknya, karena si anak kelinci bisa dititipkan pada indukan lain untuk menyusu. Anak-anak tersebut tidak akan dilukai oleh indukan betina yang berbeda. Setelah umur 2 bulan keatas siap untuk dijual.
Rata-rata masa produktif kelinci untuk berkembang biak sampai umur 3 tahun. Sedangkan jumlah anak yang lahir dari indukan tidak dibatasi. Rata-rata anakan yang lahir sekitar 4 - 10 ekor tergantung jenis kelincinya. Misalnya jenis Rex anaknya 6 ekor.
Kelinci yang bisa dijadikan indukan adalah berumut 4-5 bulan dan pilih yang bobotnya paling besar diantara saudara kandungnya yang lain. Untuk mengetahui kelinci betina siap kawin, maka perlu dilakukan pengecekan setiap hari. Ciri-cirinya, alat kelamin berwarna merah tua. Selanjutnya 1 ekor betina yang siap kawin dimasukkan ke kandang dengan 1 ekor kelinci jantan. Proses perkawinan akan terjadi dalam 1 menit. Keberhasilan proses perkawinan ditandai dengan rebahnya tubuh kelinci jantan setelah kawin. Biasanya sehari 1 ekor jantan bisa mengawini 4-10 ekor kelinci betina selang waktu 2 jam sekali secara bergantian.
Betina yang telah dikawini langsung dipisahkan dari pejantan. Setelah 2 minggu nafsu makan betina akan bertambah, sehingga pemberian pakan pun sedikit bertambah, sekitar 1,5 genggam tangan manusia dewasa. Hal tersebut menandakan kelinci betina hamil. Jika perut kelinci betina diraba saat 3 minggu setelah kawin maka akan terasa ada benjolan seperti kelereng. Kelinci akan melahirkan anaknya setelah usia kehamilan 1 bulan. Anak kelinci 60% mirip indukan kelinci jantan.
Satu ekor betina dapat melahirkan sebanay 4-10 ekor anakan dengan tingkat mortalitas (kematian) sekitar 40%. Sebaiknya 3 hari sebelum anak kelinci lahir, disediakan kotak khusus anakan, berupa kotak kayu tanpa tutup ukuran 20 x 30 cm. Kotak kayu itu kemudian dimasukkan kedalam kandang kelinci betina yang akan melahirkan.
Saat anaknya lahir secara alamiah, induk betina akan merontokan bulunya sendiri agar anak-anaknya tetap hangat dari bulu hasil rontokan. Sampai usia 2 minggu anak kelinci hanya meminum susu ibunya. Barulah setelah itu ikut makan pakan induknya sedikit-sedikit. Kelinci betina yang baru melahirkan lebih sering menyusui pada malam hari.
Umur 2 bulan anakan bisa dipisahkan/disapih dari induknya. Namun jika ingin mengejar produksi, induk betina yang kelaminnya merah tua lagi setelah 2 minggu malahirkan anaknya, bisa dikawinkan lagi dan bisa langsung dipisahkan dari anaknya. Tidak perlu khawatir dengan anaknya, karena si anak kelinci bisa dititipkan pada indukan lain untuk menyusu. Anak-anak tersebut tidak akan dilukai oleh indukan betina yang berbeda. Setelah umur 2 bulan keatas siap untuk dijual.
Rata-rata masa produktif kelinci untuk berkembang biak sampai umur 3 tahun. Sedangkan jumlah anak yang lahir dari indukan tidak dibatasi. Rata-rata anakan yang lahir sekitar 4 - 10 ekor tergantung jenis kelincinya. Misalnya jenis Rex anaknya 6 ekor.
Review tentang Daging Kelinci
Daging kelinci dapat menjadi makanan alternatif yang relatif mudah diperoleh. Daging itu mampu menurunkan risiko kolesterol dan penyakit jantung. Sayangnya, daging kelinci belum populer. Padahal, mutu gizinya lebih bagus dibanding daging lainnya, kata Dr Yono C Raharjo dari Balai Penelitian Ternak Ciawi, Bogor, dalam Seminar Nasional bertema prospek ternak kelinci untuk meningkatkan gizi masyarakat, akhir pekan lalu.
Salah satu cara mengenalkan daging kelinci kepada masyarakat adalah dengan mengolah daging kelinci ke dalam beberapa jenis masakan seperti sate kelinci, sosis, dendeng, dan bakso. “Semakin cepat dimasak, kandungan gizi kelinci makin sedikit berkurang. Daging kelinci yang paling baik dimasak adalah daging kelinci muda karena lebih cepat matang,” papar Kusmajadi Menurutnya, daging kelinci berbeda dengan daging ternak ruminansia. Daging kelinci berserat halus dan warna sedikit pucat, sehingga dapat dikelompokkan dalam golongan daging berwarna putih seperti halnya daging ayam. Daging putih kadar lemaknya rendah dan glikogen tinggi.
Rendahnya kandungan kolesterol dan natrium membuat daging kelinci sangat dianjurkan sebagai makanan untuk pasien penyakit jantung, usia lanjut, dan mereka yang bermasalah dengan kelebihan berat badan. Keuntungan lainnya, tulang pada kelinci lebih tipis, dagingnya halus, dan seratnya pendek sehingga mudah dikunyah, papar Kusmajadi. (solusisehat.net)
Langganan:
Postingan (Atom)